Manufacture of knitted synthetic fur fabric

ABSTRACT

Process technology is provided for making a synthetic fur piece from a sliver knit, high pile, differentially transversely knitted, longitudinally patterned, unstabilized starting fabric having a pile containing heat shrinkable fibers. The process involves stabilizing the starting fabric, contour shearing same, and then further processing the resulting sheared fabric under conditions which result in heat shrinking of the heat shrinkable pile fibers therein. The preferred product is a synthetic fur piece comprised of seemingly seamed together animal pelts. Various finishing operations typically and preferably are performable upon such a product to enhance fur-like properties and to simulate the appearance and qualities of specific desired animal furs, such as, for example, mink.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Knitted pile fabrics made on circular knitting machines have become wellknown, and efforts have previously been made to produce synthetic furpieces comprised of fabric knitted on a circular knitting machine. Solong as the product synthetic fur piece so knitted has a uniformtexture, it was possible by prior art technology to produce simulatedfur products which have reasonable aesthetic appearance, excellent wearproperties, and commercial practicality.

However, when it is desired to closely simulate in a deep pile fabricmade on a circular knitting machine a synthetic fur piece comprised ofseemingly seamed together animal pelts wherein the individual pelts arelongitudinally aligned relative to one another, have individuallydiscernible, predetermined Gratzens, and have non-uniform textures(including fur fiber length variations), severe manufacturing problemsarise which heretofore had no practical solutions. For one thing, tomake such a synthetic fur piece, it is necessary to have the pile fiberblend vary systematically (as respects not only color, but also fibertype and local content) by a predetermined program extending from fabricwale to wale during the knitting operation in order to simulate theactual variations which occur in pelt characteristics. For anotherthing, it is necessary to use fabric blends which can be subsequentlyprocessed preferably in a continuous or semi-continuous manner followingthe actual knitting operation so as to produce a product processedfabric resembling such a desired synthetic fur piece whose exteriorsurface portions (or pile) varies in local density and is comprised offibers of variable color, length and thickness, thereby to simulate anactual predetermined animal fur.

Modern circular knitting machines are designed to provide the capabilityof knitting complex pile patterns through the use of electromechanicaland mechanical systems which can be computer controlled so thatsystematic pile pattern variations from wale to wale, suitable for theuse in manufacturing synthetic fur pieces, can be achieved. However,such a knitting manufacturing capability does not begin to solve theproblem of manufacturing fabrics resembling such a synthetic fur piecebecause of the necessity to perform subsequent processing thereupon.

Thus, in the deep pile knitted fabric art, for practical purposes, it isgenerally considered necessary to coat or impregnate the back of a knitproduct with some sort of coating composition which, typically withsubsequent heating, tends to render the product fabric dimensionallystable, and also to give it durability by bonding the individual tuftsof pile fiber into the substrate backing so that the product does notshed very easily, and so that the individual pile fibers are not easilyplucked out of the stitches of the fabric backing.

In the case of synthetic fur fabrics with non-uniform transversecharacteristics, it is desirable to employ a knitted deep pile fiberblend which utilizes, as a portion thereof, heat shrinkable fibers whichheat shrink longitudinally within specified temperature ranges. Throughthe use of such heat shrinkable fibers, combined with suitableprocessing, it becomes possible to produce a product synthetic fur piecewherein the individual fibers of the pile have differential lengths,such as is characteristic of virtually all animal pelts. A problemarises in dimensionally stabilizing a freshly knit pile fabric throughback coating because coating compositions commonly require subsequentapplication of elevated temperatures which are in the range of thetemperatures employed for accomplishing heat shrinking of heatshrinkable fibers. Obviously, if the heat shrinkable fibers in a deeppile fabric are heat shrunk at an undesirable point in the manufactureof a synthetic fur piece, it is not possible to complete a sequence ofpost-knitting processing steps needed to complete the manufacture of apelted fabric.

In addition, in the manufacture of knitted fabrics resembling naturalfur pelts, it is desirable to contour shear the surface of the deep pilethereof so that its surface contour has the appearance of sewn togetheranimal pelts of variable fur depth, as is typical of whatever type ofanimal fur one is trying to mimic in a given product fabric.

It was previously possible to accomplish uniform shearing of knittedfabrics in a continuous manner by passing of pre-formed deep pileknitted fabric beneath a rotating cylindrical member whosecircumferential face has portions thereof so contoured that a desirableshearing is accomplished in such a pre-formed fabric. Rotating bladesare located along the circumferential surfaces of the rotatingcylindrical member, and, when it rotates, it cuts against a stationaryknife very much in the manner of operation of a conventional type reellawn mower. Typically, in the deep pile fabric manufacturing art, theactual knives associated with the rotating cylindrical member are put inat an angle so that, instead of just shearing, they also cut. Toaccomplish this action, the cross section through the knives typicallypresents an angle of knife cutting relative to the stationary blade, orso-called ledger blade, whereas, on a reel type lawn mower, the knivesare typically almost sectioned so that individual blades passsubstantially through the center of the arbour. At any rate, therotating arbour has, in the cylindrical member employed for deep pilefabric processing, a plurality of cutting edges on it which rotate past,and in close proximity to, and even in some applications actuallycontact, a fixed ledger blade.

In such uniform shearing, the distance of the rest from the ledger bladewas, until recently, held constant, and determined the length of thepile, which was thus always uniform. A recent invention provides acontoured rest of cylindrical shearing apparatus so that differentpredetermined portions of the pile of a fabric are spaced farther fromthe arbour and the ledger blade by the use of such a contoured restduring a shearing operation, thereby making it possible to contour sheara deep pile fabric differentially in a direction extending transverselyacross the fabric relative to the direction of fabric movement throughsuch contour shearing apparatus. Such a contour shearing apparatus isshown in Norman C. Alber U.S. application Ser. No. 719,017, filed Aug.30, 1976, now U.S. Pat. No. 4,102,023, granted July 15, 1978.

During contour shearing of a patterned deep pile fabric which has beenstabilized, the fabric is registered and aligned with the contourshearing apparatus so as to control location of contour shearingrelative to the pattern in the fabric. In order to be continuouslycontour sheared, a patterned deep pile fabric of a type and qualitysuitable for use in making fabrics resembling natural fur pelts must besufficiently dimensionally stable to experience processing through sucha contour shearing apparatus. If a deep pile fabric being contoursheared is insufficiently dimensionally stable, a regular pattern repeatis not achieved where it is desired in relation to the contour shearing.An Abler contour shear rest is a passive element, in effect, so that afabric moves over it, in a continuous shearing operation, and conformsto the contour of the rest. Thus, one must first not only dimensionallystabilize and lock the pile into the backing of a given deep pile sliverknit fabric to be contour sheared, but also achieve such a dimensionalstabilization without causing the heat shrinkable fiber of the pile toshrink.

So far as is known, no one has heretofore succeeded in producing asliver knit pile fabric product comprising of seemingly seamed togetheranimal pelts which fabric product has undergone contour shearing in goodregister prior to heat shrinking of pile fibers contained therein.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention provides in one aspect a deep pile knitted fabricproduct which has been contour sheared yet which has at least twodifferent lengths of fibers in the pile thereof.

In another aspect, this invention provides a simulated fur piececomprising seemingly seamed together animal pelts. Each pelt of suchsimulated fur piece has a Gratzen extending generally centrally andlongitudinally therethrough which Gratzen is commonly darker in colorand thicker in texture than adjoining pelt areas thereof. Also, eachsuch pelt has simulated guard hairs and simulated body hairs, such asare common to real pelts derived from natural fur bearing animals.

In another aspect, the present invention provides a process for makingsuch knitted fabric products. The process employs as a starting materiala high pile, unstabilized starting fabric which is preferablydifferentially transversely sliver knit, and preferably longitudinallypatterned. Such pile contains heat shrinkable fibers. By the process,such a starting fabric is dimensionally stabilized without appreciablyheat shrinking the heat shrinkable pile fibers, contour sheared, andfinally heated to heat shrinkable pile fiber heat shrinkingtemperatures.

Other and further objects, purposes, advantages, aims, utilities,features and the like will be apparent to those skilled in the art froma reading of the present specification taken together with the drawings.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

In the drawings:

FIG. 1 is a diagrammatic plan view of one embodiment of a startingfabric usable in the practice of the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a fragmentary, sectional view taken along the line II--II ofFIG. 1;

FIG. 3 is a greatly enlarged fragmentary representation of one patternsection taken along the line III--III of FIG. 1;

FIG. 4 is a greatly enlarged bottom plan view showing the structure ofthe back of the fabric of FIG. 1;

FIG. 5 is a flow diagram of one mode of practicing the process of thepresent invention;

FIG. 6 is a view similar to FIG. 5 but showing another flow diagram;

FIGS. 7, 8 and 9 diagrammatically illustrate sequential manufacturingsteps employed in a preferred mode of practicing the process of thepresent invention;

FIG. 10 is a view similar to FIG. 7 but showing an alternative techniquefor coating in accordance with the present invention;

FIG. 11 is a fragmentary, diagrammatic sectional representation of anintermediate product achieved at the end of the processing sequenceillustrated in FIG. 8;

FIG. 12 is a view similar to FIG. 11 but illustrating a fragmentary,diagrammatic sectional representation of a final product achieved at theend of the processing sequence illustrated in FIG. 9;

FIG. 13 diagrammatically illustrate sequential manufacturing stepsemployed in an optional mode suitable for further processing a productfabric resulting from the sequence of process steps shown in FIGS. 7, 8and 9; and

FIG. 14 is a view similar to FIG. 11 but illustrating a fragmentary,diagrammatic sectional representation of a fabric product achieved atthe end of the processing sequence illustrated in FIG. 13.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

In a first step, one tensions both transversely and longitudinally apreviously dimensionally unstabilized, knitted (preferably sliver), pilestarting fabric. The amount of the expansion through tensioning in anygiven case can vary. Compared to the relaxed starting fabric, onetypically expands the length thereof from 0 to about 30%, and changesthe width thereof from about -30% to +30%. Compared to the untensionedstarting fabric, the resulting tensioned fabric has been expanded ineither the length or the width thereof to a minimum extent of at leastabout 10%. Preferably equal expansion longitudinally and transversely isaccomplished. Typical and preferred transverse expansions range fromabout 15 to 25%, although tensioning does not necessarily result inexpansion.

The means for expansion can be a tenter frame, or the like, as desired.Preferred tenter frames are those of the type which operate continuouslyso that a given starting fabric can be continuously tensioned and movedpast one or more of a plurality of processing stations. Continuoustenter frames are known to the art and do not as such constitute a partof the present invention.

In general, a starting fabric employed in the practice of the presentinvention has a back comprised of yarn having a denier ranging fromabout 150 to 600. The pile of the starting fabric is comprised of fibersextending from about 1/8 to 2 inches in height over the backing. Thepile is comprised, on a 100 weight percent total pile basis, of fromabout 10 to 90 weight percent of heat shrinkable fibers with the balanceup to 100 weight percent thereof being thermally stable fibers.Characteristically, the heat shrinkable fibers are heat shrinkable at aheat shrinking temperature which typically ranges from about 200° to350° F. and characteristically and preferably the heat shrinkage isobtained at heat shrinking temperatures within determinable heatshrinking times. Typically, at the heat shrinking temperaturesindicated, the heat shrinking times range from about 1 to 5 minutes.

In a starting fabric, the weight ratio of pile fiber to backing yarnranges from about 2.5:1 to 16:1. Also, in a starting fabric, there arecharacteristically from about 10 to 24 wales per inch and from about 17to 42 courses per inch.

In a preferred class of starting fabric materials usable in the practiceof the present invention, one selects and employs a sliver knit, highpile, differentially transversely knitted, longitudinally patterned,unstabilized starting fabric having a pile containing heat shrinkablefibers. Such a fabric and methods for its manufacture are described incopending U.S. patent application Ser. No. 911,422 filed on even dateherewith in the names of Guy N. Kieckhefer and Brady T. Grubbs asco-inventors and assigned to a common assignee. Each pattern in such apile of such a preferred starting fabric is preferably chosen toresemble an animals fur with individual animals being in alongitudinally aligned relationship to one another in the startingknitted pile fabric.

Such a preferred starting fabric has a backing comprised oflongitudinally dimensionally stable and thermally stable yarn. Suchbacking preferably contains from about 8 to 24 wales per inch. Typicaland preferred backing yarns have deniers in the range from about 150 to600. Examples of suitable backing yarns include spun polyester, slitfilm olefins, filament olefins, and the like. Physical and chemicalcharacteristics of backing yarns usable in the practice of thisinvention can vary widely, the values being used in any given case beingdependent upon variables such as availability, cost and the like,typically. Commonly, backing yarns have an elongation at break of atleast about 10%, a yarn tenacity of at least about 4 grams per denier,and a specific gravity of at least about 0.9. Commonly also such abacking yarn has from about 1 to 2 turns per inch. Of course, yarnshaving other physical characteristics can be used in the practice ofthis invention without departing from the spirit and scope thereof, asthose skilled in the art will appreciate.

The pile of such a preferred starting fabric is generally characterizedby having a height above the backing ranging from about 1/4 to 2 inches.The weight ratio of pile to backing ranges from about 2.5:1 to 16:1.Preferably such weight ratio ranges from about 3:1 to 10:1. Preferably,such contains 10 to 50 weight % heat shrinkable fibers.

Broadly, the pile of such preferred starting fabric is comprised of fromabout 10 to 90 weight percent of heat shrinkable fibers with the balanceup to 100 weight percent thereof being non-heat shrinkable fibers. Theheat shrinkable fibers preferably have a heat shrinkability such that attemperatures in the range of from about 250° to 310° F. shrinkagelongitudinally of from about 10 to 60 percent occurs within a preferredheat shrinkage time ranging from about 2 to 4 minutes. Commonly heatshrinkable fibers in such preferred starting fabric have deniers rangingfrom about 1.5 to 50 although denier is a relatively unimportant factorfor purposes of the present invention as those skilled in the art willappreciate. Natural animal fur appears to vary over an extremely widerange as respects denier. It is known, for example, that one species ofmink is characterized by hair having denier variations of approximatelyfrom perhaps 1 to 90 denier in a single animal pelt.

Thermally stable fibers employed in the pile of such a preferredstarting fabric typically and preferably have lengths initially in therange of from about 1/4 to 2 inches and deniers in the range of fromabout 3 to 50, though, as indicated above, the denier of the pile fibersis a relatively unimportant consideration in the practice of the presentinvention. Examples of suitable thermally stable fibers includeacrylics, modified acrylics, polyesters, polyamides, and the like.

In such a preferred starting fabric, two or more different kinds of heatshrinkable fibers, and two or more different kinds of thermally stablefibers may be employed. In such preferred fabric, matters such as localfiber color, fabric pattern, pile variations (longitudinally ortransversely) within an individual pile pattern from pattern repeat topattern repeat, of course, as those skilled in the art will appreciate,can vary widely depending upon the particular type of effect desired.For example, perhaps a desired preferred pattern has no resemblance toany known or naturally occurring animal fur.

For example, one type of a more preferred such starting fabric uses apile comprised of at least two different classes of heat shrinkablefibers. Thus, the composition of one such type of heat shrinkable fiberhas a heat shrinkability typically in the range of from about 10 to 20%with deniers in the range of from about 1.5 to 6. A second class of heatshrinkable fibers has a heat shrinkability in the range of from about 18to 35% and has a denier in the range of from about 3 to 12. The relativeratio of such first class to such second class of heat shrinkable fibers(in terms of weight percent based on 100 weight percent total such heatshrinkable fibers) can range from about 4:6 to 6:4 in any given fabric.The respective colors of such fiber classes can be mixed, or not, asdesired for a particular pattern effect. A single class of thermallystable fibers can, of course, be used with such mixture of heatshrinkable fibers, or otherwise, if desired.

In one preferred type of pile fiber composition for use in a preferredstarting fabric employed in the practice of the present invention, threedifferent types of fibers are employed. The characteristics of therespective components in such a pile blend are shown in Table 1 below:

                  TABLE I                                                         ______________________________________                                                FIBER                                                                 FIBER   HEAT                                                                  COM-    SHRINK        RELATIVE   RELATIVE*                                    PONENT  ABILITY       DIAMETER   POPULATION                                   ______________________________________                                        A       High shrink                                                                   (20-25% shrink)                                                                             2.5D       N × 6                                  B       Moderate shrink                                                               (10-15% shrink)                                                                             1.8D       N × 2                                  C       Stabilized no shrink                                                          (3% shrink)   D          N                                            ______________________________________                                         *N designates the total weight of all pile fibers.                       

The starting fabrics useful in the practice of this invention arepreferably prepared upon circular knitting machines wherein onecircularly knits a deep pile fabric structure having characteristics asabove described. The resulting tubular structure has circumferentiallyincrementally variable differences and a longitudinally extendingpattern. A given pattern can have both circumferential and longitudinalvariations therein so as to simulate a given animal fur or peltarrangement, as desired. After the fabric has been knitted, it islongitudinally slit. Within a given deep pile fabric structure,differences in pile fabric composition can occur circumferentially(transversely in the slit fabric) from one location to another. Forexample, the edges of a given pelt simulation are typically whitish orlight colored in comparison to the dark or central Gratzen regionalthough any particular color combination with respect to colorgradations between Gratzen and edge pelt portions can be achieved, asdesired. The transverse width of a pattern repeat in a starting fabriccan vary widely. In the case of one type of preferred startingmaterials, the pattern repeat is in the range typically of from about 10to 200 (preferably from about 25 to 40) wales; though larger and smallernumbers of wales may be included within an individual pattern, asdesired, as those skilled in the art will appreciate.

One preferred class of starting fabrics useful in the present inventionemploys a pile comprised of from about 45 to 70 percent, on a total pileweight basis, of acrylic fibers. Of these fibers, about 20 to 40 weightpercent thereof are of the heat shrinkable acrylic type having a denierof from about 2 to 5 (the percentage of such fiber being expressed on a100 weight percent total pile fiber weight basis). Similarly, on thesame weight basis, of such total weight percentage of acrylics, about 5to 15 weight percent thereof is comprised of acrylic fibers having adenier of about 8 and such fibers are substantially not heat shrinkable.

In addition to the acrylic fibers present, such pile may contain fromabout 10 to 50 weight percent, on a total pile fiber composition weightbasis of modified acrylic fibers having a denier of from about 12 to 40,such modified acrylic fibers being substantially not heat shrinkable.Furthermore, such a pile fiber composition also contains from about 10to 50 weight percent of modified acrylic fibers which are not heatshrinkable (on a total pile composition weight basis) but have deniersin the range of from about 12 to 40. Bright or dull fibers may beemployed. In such composition, the initial length of the fibers rangestypically from about 1/2 to 3 inches in preferred starting fibers.

While characteristically natural fibers can be employed in the pile offabric used in the practice of this invention, it is preferred now thatsynthetic fibers be employed because of the controllability in theselection of the characteristics of such fibers that is possible throughthe use of synthetic fibers in the pile from the standpoint of knittingmachines.

After being prepared, and before use in the practice of the presentinvention, a starting fabric may be interveningly stored.

Typically, and by way of example, a starting fabric used in the practiceof the present invention may have, in its initial relaxed state, a widthranging from about 48 to 72 inches, although widths larger and smallercan be employed. The width of individual pattern repeats transverselyacross such a starting fabric preferably ranges from about 2 to 4.5inches, but the transverse width of a pattern repeat can vary widely.Preferably, a given starting fabric has at least 3 pattern repeats, andmay possibly have as many as 50 or more pattern repeats, depending uponthe width thereof, as those skilled in the art will appreciate. It isnot, however, necessary for a starting fabric to have a pattern repeatsince the advantages and practice of the present invention areapplicable to starting fabrics which do not contain any longitudinallyextending patterns having a transverse pattern repeat characteristic,although starting fabrics having a pattern repeat transversely arepreferred.

To the surface of the back of a starting fabric so tensioned oneuniformly applies a first coating composition. Such first coatingcomposition is comprised of an organic polymeric material which has aglass transition temperature not above about 0° C. (and preferably notabove about -15° C.) Such organic polymeric material is capable ofbonding to the back of the fabric after application thereto when suchcombination of backing and organic polymeric material are heatedtogether to a first temperature which is below the heat shrinkingtemperature of the heat shrinkable fibers within a time interval whichis within the range of from about 1 to 5 minutes, typically.

After undergoing such a heating, the polymeric material and the firstcoating composition functions to dimensionally stabilize a fabric sotreated to an extent sufficient to prevent such fabric from recoveringfrom its so tensioned configuration downwards (as respects transversewidth and longitudinal length beyond a predetermined value, particularlyas respects a predetermined transverse width when the tensioning issubsequently removed. The reason for such predetermined transverse widthwill become apparent herein below.

After application of the first coating composition to the back of thetensioned fabric, one heats the resulting coated fabric backing to sucha first temperature for such a time sufficient to achieve the desiredbonding between polymeric material and fabric backing with the fabricbeing so tensioned. Typical first heating temperatures range from about250° to 300° C., and thus are below the temperature at which anyappreciable amount of heat shrinkage of heat shrinkable fibers occurs.After the heating, the fabric is de-tensioned, that is, the initialtensioning is removed, preferably after the fabric is cooled.

The resulting fabric is now subjected to a contour shearing operation.In such a contour shearing operation, a series of steps aresimultaneously performed upon such resulting fabric. Thus, one stepinvolves passing the resulting fabric longitudinally through a contourshearing zone extending transversely across the resulting fabric. Thetransverse width of the contour shearing zone is equal to the aboveindicated predetermined transverse width.

Concurrently with such passing, one longitudinally tensions transverselythe resulting fabric. The amount of longitudinal tensioning applied tothe fabric is sufficient to draw down the transverse width thereof, ifnecessary, to an extent sufficient to cause the resulting width of thefabric to be substantially equal to such predetermined width (or, ineffect, equal to the transverse width of such contour shearing zone).The effect of such passing and such longitudinal tensioning is such asto achieve a predetermined registration between contours in the contourshearing zone and the pile fabric; for example, a desired registrationbetween contours in the contour shearing zone and respective individualpattern repeats in the resulting fabric being subjected to contourshearing.

Concurrently with such a passing and such a longitudinal tensioning,contour shearing of the pile of the resulting fabric is carried out.

As indicated above, contour shearing is preferably carried out inaccordance with the practices of the present invention using a contourshear device of the type described and shown in the above referencedAbler U.S. Pat. No. 4,102,023.

The resulting so contour sheared fabric is, if desired, interveninglystored before being subjected to a processing operation. In general,such subsequent processing involves a second heating operation in whichsimultaneously another series of steps is carried out. Thus, in suchsecond heating operation, one heats the so-contour sheared fabric to theheat shrinking temperatures of the heat shrinkable fibers for their heatshrinking times, which are as indicated above.

Concurrently, one tensions transversely and longitudinally the socontour sheared fabric to an extent sufficient to expand the respectivelengths and breadths thereof to values approximately and preferablycorresponding to those used in the initial tensioning (relative to theinitial relaxed state of the starting fabric). In general, thepreferences and conditions of tensioning can be as described above forthe first or initial tensioning. For purposes of tensioning, one canemploy here a tenter frame, preferably a continuously movable tenterframe, as before.

Concurrently with such second heating and second tensioning, onemaintains the contour sheared pile of the contour sheared fabric in afree state. By the term "free state", reference is had to the fact thatthe exposed surface of the pile is not permitted to contact any solidobject while being so secondly heated and so secondly tensioned in orderto avoid any possibility of giving to the fabric pile fiber a set,crease, or the like, which would be undesired.

By the above indicated sequence of processing steps, for the first time,it is possible to achieve a product knitted pile fabric which has beencontour sheared and wherein the individual fibers of the pile thereof donot have a flattened, uniform surface transversely across the width ofthe product fabric. In addition to important decorative effects for usein the manufacture of striped fabrics for upholstery, clothing and thelike (whether or not such are patterned or have different colorstransversely across the width thereof), the present invention isparticularly well suited for the manufacture of knitted pile fabricswherein the pile thereof has an appearance which resembles a seeminglyseamed together group of longitudinally aligned animal pelts, each ofthe pelts having a Gratzen extending longitudinally therethrough. TheGratzen can be of any desired configuration or type. One preferred typeof Gratzen is generally darker in color and thicker in texture thanadjoining areas thereof. Each of the pelts in such knitted pile fabrichas simulated guard hairs and simulated base hairs.

In the practice of this invention, it will be appreciated thatindividual pieces of a starting fabric can be spliced or otherwise boundtogether longitudinally so that a continuous mode of practicing thepresent invention can be carried out with an endless loop of startingfabric. In carrying out the back coating operation above described, anyconvenient coating procedure and coating apparatus may be employed,though preferably continuous coating techniques are utilized. Knifecoating involving a doctor blade, and roller coating involving a rollerare presently preferred, coating techniques.

In one convenient present mode, the back face of the starting fabric isturned upwards and a knife coater is extended transversely across thelongitudinally continuously moving starting fabric which is tensioned asabove described. A reservoir of a liquid or foamed coating compositionis continuously deposited upon the moving fabric behind or in front of aknife blade whose surface engages at some convenient vertical pressurethe surface of the fabric moving therebeneath. Conveniently, the knifeblade trails behind the reservoir of coating composition relative to thedirection of fabric movement and the knife blade tensioning is such asto provide for a technique of controlling the amount of coatingcomposition deposited upon the fabric back being coated. The reservoiror well which leads the coating blade is continuously supplied withcoating composition with the fabric web being mounted on a tenter framewith the backing side up and the pile side down. A coating is thusapplied directly upon the web from the bottom of the well immediatelyahead of the blade wiping the web. The wiping action forces the coatingcomposition into the web and also enables one to meter the amount ofcoating composition applied to and into the web. The well aids inleveling the coating composition so that a uniform application anddistribution of coating composition transversely across a fabric web isachieved during a coating operation. The particular fabric web beingcoated is backed up or supported underneath on its bottom or pile sideby some means, such as a blade member 25a (see FIG. 7) which isstationary, or a roller member 76a (see FIG. 10.) which revolves, withthe circumference of the roller thereof moving in the direction of pilefabric web translation. Thus, the wiper blade on the top against theback surface of the fabric has a base against which to exert a pressure.Preferably, some degree of force is exerted by the wiper blade upon thepile fiber, but the degree of force exerted is generally less than thatwhich will cause an actual movement of the pile or the fabric throughdirect application of the blade thereto. Such a coating apparatus isknown to the prior art and does not as such constitute a point ofnovelty in the practice of the present invention.

Coating compositions useful in the practice of the present invention arecharacterized by having the capacity, as indicated above, when dried, tostiffen and dimensionally stabilize the backing of a pile fabric used inthe practice of the present invention. Preferred coating compositionsare in the form of a liquid. Conveniently, the liquid can be employed assuch or in a foamed condition. After the coating composition is applied,as described above, the so-coated back surface of the fabric is exposedto temperatures which are sufficient to remove the volatile componentsof the coating composition, such as water or other solvent used as afluid carrier for the coating composition. Also, in the case of somepolymeric materials, this heating affords the polymer a chance todevelop a bond between portions of the fabric and the polymer thereby toimprove the dimensional stability characteristics of the resultingso-coated and heat treated fabric system.

Preferably, the resulting so coated and heated fabric, relative to astarting fabric, is stiffened and stabilized dimensionally to such anextent that the fabric no longer tends to contract appreciably intransverse and longitudinal directions when tensioning forces areremoved therefrom following coating and heating.

If desired, the coating composition employed can be one of the typewhich contains a curing agent. During the initial heating, the curingagent optionally may or may not chemically operate to cross link thecoating composition. At the present time it is believed that a crosslinking should preferably occur during the second heating operationafter the fabric has been contour sheared as described above.

Many different coating compositions known to the prior art appear to besuitable for use in the practice of the present invention. At thepresent time, preferred coating compositions are in the form of aqueoussolutions, emulsions, dispersions, or the like containing therein adesired polymeric material. The polymeric material can be in the form ofhomopolymer or copolymer. Preferably the starting polymer has not yetbeen cross linked if it is cross linkable. Blends of different polymerscan be employed which may or may not be reactable with one another underthe conditions of practicing the technology of the present invention.One class of suitable polymers comprises synthetic and natural rubbers(elastomers) which may be blended together in a starting coatingcomposition. Examples of suitable polymers include polychloroprene(neoprene), styrene butadiene latices, carboxylated styrene butadienecopolymers containing at least 50 weight percent or more of boundstyrene, emulsion copolymers containing lower alkyl acrylates andacrylonitrile, and the like.

One class of presently preferred coating compositions incorporatepolymers and associated components which are adapted to, when dried,cross link at temperatures in the range of from about 250° to 350° C.,or at temperatures which are in the range of heat shrinking temperaturesassociated with heat shrinkable fibers employed in starting fabrics ofthe present invention. Moreover, such preferred polymeric systems areadapted to achieve a substantially complete cross linking within theheat shrinking times utilized for achieving heat shrinking in heatshrinkable fibers at heat shrinking temperatures.

In one preferred mode of practicing the present invention, a resultingcoated and heated pile fabric is not only dimensionally stabilizedwithout achieving substantially any heat shrinkage of heat shrinkablefibers, but also is adapted to be transversely and/or longitudinallyelongated over and above the dimensions associated with the coated andheated pile fabric. After being so tensioned transversely and/orlongitudinally, and then such tensioning is released, the coated, heatedfabric is capable, preferably, of recovering its originally coated,heated dimensions within about 10%. The use of coating compositionswhich result in a rigidification of a resulting coated and heated fabricused in this invention to such an extent that transverse and/orlongitudinal tensioning thereof cannot be accomplished without somerecovery should be avoided, preferably, for purposes of practicing thepresent invention.

Typical coating compositions employed in the practice of this inventioncontain, at the time of coating in accordance with the presentinvention, from about 5 to 65 weight percent solids, with the balance upto 100 weight percent thereof being volatile liquid, preferably water.The solids contained in such a coating composition can preferablycomprise mainly polymer, although the coating composition can alsoemploy from about 2 to 20 weight percent of various other agents, suchas thickeners, colorants, flame retardants, fillers, cross linkingagents, polymerizable monomers, and the like, as desired.

Typical coating rates for the first coating composition can vary widely.Common rates fall in the range of from about 0.05 to 2 pounds of coatingcomposition solids per lineal yard of coated fabric on a 100 percent dryweight basis. The amount of coating composition applied in any giveninstance is generally at least sufficient to achieve a desireddimensional stabilizing action, as above described. More preferredcoating rates for purposes of the present invention range from about0.01 to 0.5 pounds of coating solids per linear yard of coated fabric(same basis).

First heating temperatures to which a coated fabric is subjected, inaccordance with the practice of the present invention, likewise can varywidely, but presently tend broadly to range from about 215° to 260° F.Temperatures below this range tend to be too low, and therefore, tooslow, while temperatures above this range tend to induce the possibilityof undesirable shrinkage of heat shrinkable fibers. Preferredtemperatures range from about 225° to 255° F. Preferred temperatureexposure times in the range of from about 1 to 5 minutes can be employedand preferably are in the range of from about 2 to 4 minutes.

As those skilled in the art will appreciate, in addition to bilaterallystabilizing dimensionally a fabric being used in the practice of thepresent invention, the coating and heating steps with the startingfabric, as hereinabove described, accomplish the desirable effect ofbinding the individual fibers in the pile to the associated backingyarns locally so that the individual tufts of pile fibers are not easilydislodged from the product fabric. Typically, coating application ratesas above indicated, along with other coating conditions and heatingconditions, are sufficient and adequate in order to obtain a desirablebonding of pile fibers to yarn fibers to an extent sufficient to achieveuseful products by the practice of the teachings of the presentinvention.

After being contour sheared, a resulting pile fabric can be stored, ifdesired, before being subjected to further processing, storingconveniently being accomplished by coiling, plating, or the like, asdesired.

In accordance with one preferred practice of the present invention,before being subjected to a second heating operation and after beingcontour sheared, a contour sheared fabric is subjected to a secondcoating operation. Such a second coating operation is conveniently andpreferably performed in a manner similar to that employed for the firstcoating operation above described, though any convenient coatingprocedure can be employed if desired. Such fabric is tensioned as abovedescribed during such a second coating operation.

Coating conditions, application rates, compositions, etc., are similarto those employed for the first coating operation, if desired. Whenutilizing the second coating procedure, one can employ in the firstcoating operation less coating solids than if a single pass coatingoperation is desired, preferably. When employing two coatings, the firstcoating is applied at a rate conveniently in the range of from about0.01 to 0.50 pounds per lineal yard and the second coating is applied ata rate of from about 0.01 to 0.50 pounds per lineal yard. As usedherein, it is noted that the term "pounds per lineal yard" has referenceto a fabric having a transverse width of approximately 60 inches, orequivalent. Either the same or different coating composition can beemployed during the second coating operation as is employed in the firstcoating operation. In one preferred mode of operating, the coatingcomposition employed in each of the first and the second coatingoperations is identical.

During the second coating operation, the fabric being coated istensioned in a manner similar to that employed initially. After thesecond coating operation is completed, and while the thus twice coatedfabric is still tensioned, it is preferably immediately subjected, as inthe case of the first coating and first heating, to a second heatingoperation, with the heating conditions in the second heating operationbeing similar to those described above.

As indicated above, the second heating is conducted at temperaturessufficient to both accomplish heat shrinking of heat shrinkable fibersand also to accomplish a substantially complete drying of the coatingcomposition employed in the second coating operation. If the coatingcomposition employed is one which cures, the temperatures of curing ofsuch coating composition are preferably selected so that the secondheating may be carried out at temperatures which are sufficient both toheat shrink the heat shrinkable fibers and also to accomplish asubstantially complete curing of the coating composition.

Whether or not a second coating operation is employed, the productfabric emerging from the second heating step is substantially completelydimensionally stabilized, by which reference is had to the fact that theproduct fabric displays a tendency not to shrink or diminish in size bya factor of more than about 10% transversely or longitudinally after thetensioning of the fabric is removed following completion of the secondheating step. Preferably, the fabric displays, after such second heatingstep, substantially no tendency to dimensionally change upon removal oftensioning forces therefrom.

The two coating procedure is preferred for purposes of the presentinvention since such procedure imparts to a product fabric desirabledimensional stability characteristics. The dimensional stability of athus twice coated and heated product of the present invention tends tobe better than that achieved with a single coating operation inaccordance with the practice of the present invention.

As used herein, the term "Gratzen" has reference to a stripe runningdown the back center region of a fur pelt (whether synthetic or not).The stripe has a different and generally thicker texture and fur lengththan adjoining areas. The term "Gratzen" includes the connotation ofshadings as is typical of the shadings which occur in the back ofanimals having Gratzens, in general. The Gratzen can be regarded as acentral region longitudinally extending through the pelt of an animalcharacteristically having a Gratzen.

A simulated fabric product made by the teachings of this invention thusis made on a circular knitting machine and is comprised of seeminglyseamed together animal pelts wherein the individual pelts arelongitudinally arranged relative to one another in rows, haveindividually discernable, predetermined Gratzens, and have nonuniformtextures (including fur fiber variations). Each individual simulatedanimal pelt row is characterized by changing features as one proceedstransversely across such an individual pelt row. Thus, there is a changenot only in the pile structure, but also in the distances between wales,in a preferred embodiment of the present invention. The structure ofsuch a preferred product is such that the transverse width of theindividual simulated pelts transversely across a product fabric issubstantially equal to the transverse width of the others thereof. Forthis purpose, one uses, as a starting material, a differentially knit,sliver knit, high pile fabric prepared as described in the abovereferenced co-pending application filed on even date herewith, thecontents of which are entirely incorporated herein by reference.

Fabrics produced by the practice of the present invention preferably arepatterned, and experience of systematic variation of fiber blend withinan individual pattern repeat as one progresses transversely across afabric product of this invention and examines transversely the pilethereof. Texture effects and color shadings are desirable because animalpelts characteristically are not uniform, and there is experiencedpreferably variations as one proceeds from one square inch to anotheracross a synthetic fur piece comprised of seemingly seemed togetheranimal pelts.

In preferred products of this invention of this type, the Gratzen widthof each individual simulated pelt row occupies perhaps a total of about50% of the total pelt width, and is perhaps inset up to about one-thirdof the side distance inwards from a lateral side edge of each pelt rowin the mid regions of an individual pelt row. The effect of longer guardhairs is achieved by using heavier denier fibers in the Gratzen area ofan individual pelt row. The guard hairs which occur in the belly regionsof a simulated pelt can have a different denier from those in theGratzen region. The length of the base hairs and guard hairs relative toone another can vary greatly. For purposes of the present invention, theratio of the length of guard hairs to body hairs or base hairs in agiven simulated pelt can range from about 2:1 to 1.1:1, although longerand shorter such ratios can be achieved without departing from thespirit and scope of the present invention. The number of guard hairsrelative to base hairs also can vary from one simulated pelt to another.Conveniently, for purposes of the present invention, this ratio on thebasis of weight can extend from about 1:1 to 0.3:1, although larger andsmaller such ratios can be achieved without departing from the spiritand scope of the present invention.

In the most presently preferred practice of the present invention, afirst and a second coating operation are each employed as abovedescribed. In the first coating, a relatively small amount of coatingcomposition (in the range of from about 0.01 to 0.2 pounds per linearyard of coating solids) is applied for the reason that it is desired tobe able to control the width of the fabric under tension at the regionof contour shearing in a contour shearing operation. It has been foundthat it can be difficult to control the transverse width of a fabricduring contour shearing, so that it is advisable to be able to permit anoperator to have the ready capacity to variably alter the tension of afabric being contour sheared as the contour shearing operationprogresses so as to be able to continuously maintain the predetermineddesired alignment between contour shearing apparatus and fabric beingcontour sheared thereby to achieve a desirable and precise contourshearing. If a relatively heavy first coating is applied, it has beenfound that it is generally more difficult to precisely control tensionin the longitudinal direction in the contour shearing zone. It alsoappears that, in tensioning after the first coating and heatingoperations, particularly longitudinally, one tends to rupture, or break,or loosen, some, or all, of the adhesive bonds existing from wale towale as a result of the contour shearing operation. The adhesive bondingachieved with a relatively light first coating has proven to besufficient for purposes of achieving a desirable and controllabledimensional stability for use in contour shearing as above described.

After a given contour shearing operation has been completed, theseloosened areas of bond between overlying members of fabric can bere-stabilized dimensionally by passing the resulting pile fabric throughthe second heating zone. However, to augment the effect of the firstcoating, the second coating operation is preferred before the secondheating is experienced, thereby to enhance the bonding action betweenthe adjoining members of the fabric, and also to bridge the bonds thatwere loosened or broken when the width of the fabric was reducedfollowing the first coating operation and subsequent heating during thecontour shearing step as above described.

The product resulting from the second heating operation as abovedescribed can either be used as such, or it can be subjected to furtherprocessing operations, if desired. For example, one can subject theproduct fabric resulting from a second heating operation to a sequenceof steps involving passage of the fabric through an electrifier followedby subsequent passage through a shearing apparatus (to eliminate strayhairs projecting upwardly developed in the fabric as a result of theelectrifier operation). Such a sequence of electrification followed byshearing can be practiced more than once. As those skilled in the artwill appreciate, an electrifier functions to polish and to straightenthe terminal outer end regions of individual fibers comprising a pile ina knitted fabric. Conventional electrifier technology andpost-electrifier shear technology can be employed with care, of course,being taken not to disrupt the desired effects achieved in the contoursheared, heat shrunken heat shrinkable fibers incorporated into the pileof a product fabric of this invention. As those skilled in the art willappreciate, a variety of subsequent processing steps, if desired, can beemployed so as to process a given product of this invention into a finalfabric product having special properties, as an individual use situationmay demand. The electrifier operation is sometimes called by thoseskilled in the art "fur ironing" since one straightens out certain ofthe fibers in a pile and removes the crimp therefrom, so that,thereafter, when the structure of the fiber is passed through theelectrifier, different fibers are affected thereby to different degrees.The shearing intervening between subsequent pairs of electrifieroperation or processing operates to remove the fibers of extreme length,sometimes called by those skilled in the art the wile.

Referring to the drawings, there is seen in FIG. 5 the type ofmanufacturing sequence employable in the practice of the presentinvention. Here, the starting knit pile fabric has a longitudinalpattern and the pile incorporates fibers having heat shrinkablecharacteristics. This fabric is previously not dimensionally stabilized.Preferably, before being used in the practice of the process of thepresent invention, such pile fabric is subjected to a pre-shearingoperation (not contour shearing but a uniform transverse shear) which isaccomplished by passing the fabric through a conventional shearingapparatus of the type heretofore used in the art of high pile, sliverknit fabrics. The purpose of the pre-shearing operation is to improvethe product quality of the final product by eliminating initially pilefiber surface irregularities which are characteristically common toproducts produced by circular knitting machines and the like.

The pre-sheared knit pile fabric is then bilaterally stretched, and,while so stretched, is subjected to a first coating operation, followedby a first heating operation, after which the bilateral stretching isceased. Then, the resulting knit pile fabric is stretchedlongitudinally, and is subjected to contour shearing, with anylongitudinal pattern in the knit pile fabric being centered andregistered with the contour shearing apparatus. Thereafter, theresulting contour sheared pile fabric is bilaterally stretched,similarly to the manner in which bilateral stretching is earlieraccomplished, and then the contour sheared pile fabric is subjected hereto a second coating operation followed by a second heating operationwhile so stretched bilaterally. The product which results can then beused as such, or subjected to further processing, as as hereindescribed.

Referring to FIG. 6, there is seen an alternative mode for practicingthe present invention. Here, plain goods comprising knit pile fabricwithout a pattern therein, but containing about 10-60% heat shrinkablepile fibers is subjected to a preferred but optional pre-shearingoperation similar to that above described in reference to FIG. 5.

Thereafter, the resulting fabric is stretched bilaterally, and while sostretched, is subjected to coating and heating operations. After thestretching bilaterally is removed, the fabric is contour sheared. Duringcontour shearing, the fabric is stretched longitudinally to a desiredextent so as to achieve a desired or predetermined registration andalignment of the plain knit pile fabric goods with the contours in thecontour pile shear apparatus.

Next, the resulting contour sheared pile fabric is stretched bilaterallyin a manner similar to that earlier accomplished, and is optionally butpreferably subjected to a second coating operation. Following suchoptional second coating operation, the second heating is undertaken, andbilateral stretching is thereafter ceased, as above, to produce aproduct having the features and characteristics herein detailed.

One manner in which the sequence of bilateral stretching, first coating,and first heating can be accomplished is illustrated in FIG. 7. Here, afabric 21 supplied from a pleat 22 is passed over rollers 23 and 24.From roller 24 the fabric 21 is fed onto a continuously operating tenterframe assembly 32 which transversely and longitudinally stretches thefabric 21 to a predetermined extent as above described. Thus, whilepassing through the coating apparatus 25 and the oven 26, the fabric 21is maintained under longitudinal and transverse tension by thecontinuously operating tenter frame 32. In these drawings longerdiameter rollers generally indicate drive rollers. From roller 24 thefabric 21 is passed under a knife coating apparatus 25, such ashereinabove described. The fabric 21 is arranged and oriented pile-sidedown so that the back of the fabric receives the coating from thecoating apparatus 25 so that a uniform rate of coating composition isapplied to the back of the fabric 21. From the coater 25, the fabric iscontinuously transported through an oven 26. The forward speed of thefabric 21, and the temperature of the oven 26, are arranged so that thetime and temperature exposure of the fabric 21 in the oven 26 correspondto the first heating times and temperatures hereinabove described. Afterleaving the oven 26 wherein the pile of the fabric 21 is held in asubstantially free condition so as not to adversely affect same, theresulting so-coated pile is fed over rollers 27, 28, and 29 before beingpassed over a roller 30 and formed into a pleat 31 for storage. As canbe seen from FIG. 7, as the fabric 21 leaves the oven 26, the tensionthereon is released.

The sequence of passage, longitudinal stretching, registration,centering, and contour shearing is illustrated in FIG. 8. Here, a pleat35 of fabric which has been previously tensioned, coated and heated asabove described is fed over roller 36 and 37 into and through the nipregion 38 defined between a contour shear bar 39 of the type shown inthe above referenced Abler U.S. Pat. No. 4,102,023 and a contour shearroller 40, with longitudinal tension of the fabric 41 being maintainedover the bar 39 by means of rollers 36 and 43, such tension beingadjustable and correctable so as to maintain a desired width for thefabric 41 as it passes over the contour shear bar 39 in a desiredcentered and registered relationship between the contour shear bar 39and the shear roller 40 in the nip region 38. From roller 42, the fabric41, now contour sheared, passes over the rollers 43, 44 and 45 beforebeing formed into a pleat 46 for intervening storage.

The sequence of bilateral stretching followed by second heating isillustrated in FIG. 9. Here, previously contour sheared fabric 51 issupplied from a storage pleat 52 over rollers 53 and 54 to a knifecoating station 55 which can be constructed as above described, andwhich can be similar to the knife coating apparatus 25, above describedin FIG. 7.

As will be seen from FIG. 9, the fabric 51 is fed from roller 54directly to a continuously operating tenter frame 56 so that as thefabric 51 passes under the coating apparatus 55 such is maintained undertransverse and longitudinal tension whose respective magnitudescorrespond to that earlier employed on the tenter frame 32 abovedescribed.

The second coating station 55 represents an optional but preferredembodiment of the present invention, as described above. While stilltensioned, the fabric 51 after being coated passes into and through anoven 57. The temperature inside oven 57 along with the residence time ofthe fabric 51 therein is such that the heat shrinkable fibers in Fabric51 are heat shrunk to a desirable extent during the passage of thefabric 51 through the oven 57. Concurrently, the temperature in the oven57 along with the residence time of the fabric 51 therein is such thatthe coating composition applied at coating station 55 and also thecoating composition earlier applied at the coating station 25 undergo asubstantially complete drying and curing operation so as to develop inthe product fabric emerging from the oven 57 a desired degree ofdimensional stability. As the fabric emerges from the oven 57 it ispermitted to be de-tensioned as it passes over the succession of rollers58, 59, 60 and 61 after which the fabric 51 is permitted to be placedinto a storage pleat 64 or the like, as desired.

As those skilled in the art will appreciate, between rolls 30 and 36, afabric being processed in accordance with the present invention isinverted and, similarly, between rollers 45 and 53 such a fabric isagain inverted. During passage of the fabric 51 through oven 57, thepile of the fabric 51 is maintained in a free condition to avoid anychange in the characteristics thereof while exposed to the oven heat 57beyond the desired longitudinal shrinkage of the heat shrinkable fiberstherein.

An alternative mode of practicing the sequence of steps involvingbilateral stretching, back coating and heating such as shown in FIG. 7or in FIG. 9 can be accomplished in the manner shown for example, inFIG. 10. Here, fabric 71 from a pleat 72 is fed over rollers 73 and 74onto a tanter frame 75. The fabric and pleat 72 can be considered to beeither the fabric in pleat 22 or the fabric in pleat 52 except that herethe fabric 71 is spatially oriented so that its pile side faces upwards,as those skilled in the art will appreciate.

After entering the tenter frame 75, the fabric 71 passes over rollercoating apparatus 76 and is coated on its back side with a coatingcomposition. Afterwards, while on the tenter frame 75, the coated fabric71 passes through the oven 77 wherein a desired sequence of temperaturesand times are employed relative to the movement of the fabric 71. Afterleaving the oven 77, the fabric is passed over the succession of rollers78, 79, 80 and 81 before being stored in a pleat 82.

The coating apparatus 25, 55, and 76 are of types conventionally knownto the art as are the respective ovens 26, 57, and 77.

The cross sectional appearance of fabric in pleat 46 is illustrated bythe view shown in FIG. 11 where the pile 83 in a sliver knit high pilefabric 84 has been contour sheared along the curved profile 85 bypassage through the contour shearing apparatus of the type, for example,illustrated in FIG. 8 with longitudinal tension being applied to thebacking 86 thereof. Observe that all of the fibers in the pile 83 aremore or less uniformly sheared according to the contours of the contourshearing device and that substantially no heat shrinkage of heatshrinkable fibers has yet taken place. Observe also that the individualfibers have maintained their characteristic crimp or kinky longitudinalconfigurations.

Referring to FIG. 12, there is seen in a cross section a representationof the appearance of a product of this invention which has undergone aheat shrinkage operation such as is achieved by passage of the fabric 51through an oven 57. Here, the thermally stable fibers 87 maintain theirsame lengths as shown in FIG. 11 but the heat shrinkable fibers 88 haveexperienced a longitudinal shortening caused by exposure to thetemperatures and times experienced in the oven 57. Observe that allfibers maintain their characteristic crimped or wrinkled configurations.The fabric of the type shown in FIG. 12 can be used as such or can besubjected to further processing operations.

The type of further processing operations to which a product fabric ofthis invention may be subjected, if desired, are illustrated in FIG. 13.Here, a product fabric 91 of this invention is supplied from a storagepleat 92 over a drive roller 93 and then over guide rollers 94 and 95for passage of the pile of fabric 91 against the rotatably movingcylindrical surface portions of an electrifier roller 96, the fabric 91being brought into face to face engagement with the electrifier roller96 by means of support bar 97. The structure and operation ofconventional electrifiers is well known to the prior art. From theregion of the electrifier 96, the now processed fabric 91 isconveniently passed over a support bar 98 of a conventional shearingcylinder 99 whose function is to remove excessively long and stray hairsbrought up from the pile of fabric 91 by the passage of same past theelectrifier roll 96. Thereafter, the fabric 91 is passed over a guideroller 100 and then over a drive roller 101 for passing over anotherguide roller 102 followed by another guide roller 103 before beingstored in a storage pleat 104. More than one stage of electrificationfollowed by shearing can be employed if desired.

Referring to FIG. 14, the transverse cross sectional appearance of afabric pleat 104 is illustrated. Here the thermally stable fibers 105 aswell as the heat shrunk fibers 106 have experienced a polishing actionand a straightening action upon their terminal outer regions designatedas 107 and 108, respectively, for purposes of designation herein.Sometimes such a "fur polishing" action is desirable when using productsof this invention, as those skilled in the art will appreciate.

Typically, the width of a starting fabric ranges from about 54 to 60inches which is a common width in the industry. Such a starting fabriccontains from about 8 to 24 wales per inch before stabilization and fromabout 17 to 42 courses per inch in an unstabilized condition. In aso-called "10-cut" circular knitting machine the number of courses perinch ranges from about 17 to 26 while the number of courses per inch ina so-called "16-cut" circular knitting machine ranges from about 27 to42. After a fabric has been stabilized through a first coating operationand first heating operation while being tensioned, all as describedabove, a fabric contains from about 9 to 22.5 wales per inch and fromabout 17 to 38 courses per inch. In a so-called 10-cut machine, thenumber of courses per inch in stabilized fabrics ranges from about 17 to28 while the number of courses per inch in a 16-cut machine ranges fromabout 27 to 44. The term "wales" has reference to stitches oriented in alongitudinal direction measured transversely, while the term courses hasreference to stitches oriented in a transverse direction but measuredlongitudinally.

When the yarn in a starting fabric comprises polyester filament, itpreferably has a denier ranging from about 200 to 600 with preferreddeniers being about 300. When the yarn comprises slit film olefin, thedenier preferably ranges from about 300 to 480 with most preferreddeniers being about 480. When the yarn comprises a filament olefin, thedenier preferably ranges from about 200 to 600. When the yarn comprisesa spun staple, it has a denier preferably ranging from about 380 to 530.More preferred yarns for use in the present invention are filamentolefins preferably having deniers in the range of about 25 per filamentwith most preferred such yarns preferably having a denier of about 250.Presently preferred olefin filament yarns, for example, have a yarntenacity of about 6 grams per denier, an elongation at break of about 12percent, a specific gravity of about 0.91, and about 11/2 turns perinch.

When a starting fabric has no longitudinally extending pattern therein,it is preferred that such starting material contain on a 100 weightpercent total pile fiber basis at least about 25 weight percent of heatshrinkable fibers which have heat shrink characteristics of at leastabout 20%.

At the present time, a most preferred starting fabric has a fiber toyarn weight ratio of about 9 to 1.

Preferably, in a starting fabric which (a) has been tensioned, (b) hashad a first coating composition uniformly applied thereto, (c) has beenheated to a temperature for a time sufficient to achieve bonding, and(d) has been tensioned, the pattern repeats thereof each have asubstantially uniform width transversely, and such width of theindividual patterns ranges from about 1 to 20 inches (preferably about 1to 5 inches).

Preferably a starting fabric used in the practice of the presentinvention has a pile which is comprised of acrylic fibers and/ormodified acrylic fibers. By the term "acrylic" and "modified acrylic" asused herein in relation to fibers, reference is had to fibers whichcontain bound into the polymeric structure thereof not less than about50 weight percent of acrylic monomers. Any convenient weight ratio ofacrylic to modified acrylic can be employed so long as the resultingfiber blend contains from about 10 to 90 weight percent of heatshrinkable fibers, as indicated above.

Referring to FIGS. 1 and 2, there is seen a preferred knitted pilefabric product produced by the process of the present invention. Herein,the pile thereof has the appearance of seemingly seamed togetherlongitudinally aligned animal pelts. Each one of the pelts has a Gratzenextending longitudinally therethrough. Optionally, but preferably, theGratzen is darker in color and thicker in texture than adjoining areasthereof. Each of the individual pelts has simulated guard hairs 110 andsimulated base hairs 111 as shown in the enlarged cross sectional viewdepicted in FIG. 3. The product knitted pile fabric also is madeaccording to the teachings of Kieckhefer and Grubbs preferably using adifferentially transversely knitted pile fabric wherein proceeding fromthe center line 112 outwardly to either opposed side edge 113 or 114thereof, the individual pattern repeats 115 through 119, and 115'through 119' are preferably in bilaterally arranged symmetricalrelationship to such center line 112. Also, the individual number ofwales in each of the respective pattern repeats 115 through 119 in theillustrative embodiment shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 is such that thetransverse width of each individual pattern 115 through 119 issubstantially equal to the others thereof. Such equality in transversewidth of pattern repeats is accomplished by the use of transverselydifferential knitting as taught and provided in the technology containedin the above referenced copending application filed on even dateherewith above referenced in the names of Kieckhefer and Grubbs.

The appearance of the knitted backing characteristically involved inknitted pile fabric starting materials used in the practice of thepresent invention is illustrated in FIG. 4.

In preferred products of the present invention, as one proceeds acrossan individual pattern, there occurs a difference in the density of thepile fabric on either side of a center line of an individual patternrepeat. Thus, the fabric is denser and therefore longer in the midregion of pattern 119 than it is near the edge portions thereof in orderto simulate the natural effect of a Gratzen in an animal pelt, as thoseskilled in the art will understand.

For example, pattern 119 shown in FIG. 3 involves an exemplary patternwherein the guard hairs 110 are spaced at intervals from one another. Inthe region of the center line 121, a larger number of base haris 111 areinterposed between adjacent guard hairs 110 than are interposed betweenadjacent guard hairs 110 at opposed side edge portions of such pattern119.

EMBODIMENTS

The present invention is further illustrated by reference to thefollowing examples. Those skilled in the art will appreciate that otherand further embodiments are obvious and within the spirit and scope ofthis invention from the teachings of these present examples taken withthe accompanying specification.

EXAMPLES A through E

Table II below lists various starting materials used in the followingnumbered examples, each one being a fabric about 60 inches wide.

Examples B, C, D and E are prepared by the teachings of the above notedKieckhefer et al U.S. Patent application; each fabric is knitted with apattern resembling a seemingly pelted fur of 19 pelts transversely. Thenumber of wales per pelt is shown in Table II below.

                                      TABLE II                                    __________________________________________________________________________    STARTING FABRICS                                                                                                        Fabric                                                                        weight                                  Backing                                                                              Pile Fiber                     ratio of                                                                          wales                                                                             courses                     Ex. yarn   Heat Shrinkable                                                                              Non Heat Shrinkable                                                                           fiber to                                                                          per per                         Letter                                                                            type                                                                              den.                                                                             type                                                                              length                                                                            den.                                                                             wt. %                                                                             type length                                                                            den.                                                                             wt. %                                                                             yarn                                                                              inch                                                                              inch                                                                              Remarks                 __________________________________________________________________________    A   spun   acry-                                                                             3/4 to     modified                                                                           3/4 to                 solid                       poly-                                                                             380                                                                              lic 11/2"                                                                             3  75  acrylic                                                                            11/2"                                                                             6-12                                                                             25  5:1 12  21  1 color                     ester                                                                     B                         modified                                                                           11/8 to                                                                           10-                animal                      slit                  acrylic                                                                            2"  24 35  6:1 12  21  pattern                     film                                                                              480                                                                              acry-                                                                             3/4 to     modified                                                                           3/4 to                                             olefin lic 11/2"                                                                             3  60  acrylic                                                                            11/2"                                                                             5   5                                      C                         modified                                                                           1 to                                               fila-  acry-                                                                             3/4 to     acrylic                                                                            11/2"                                                                             6-18                                                                             40                                          ment                                                                              300                                                                              lic 11/2"                                                                             3  20  modified                                                                           1 to                                                                              12-                animal                      olefin                acrylic                                                                            13/4"                                                                             24 40  5.5:1                                                                             12  21  pattern                 D   fila-  high           modified                                                                           11/8 to                                                                           16-                                            ment                                                                              250                                                                              shrink                                                                            3/4 to     acrylic                                                                            21/2"                                                                             24 40                                          olefin acry-                                                                             11/2"                                                                             3  25       11/8 to                animal                             lic            acrylic                                                                            2"  6-18                                                                             35  6:1 12  21  pattern                 E                         acrylic                                                                            3/4 to 11/2                                                                       6  25  5.5:1                                                                             12  21  animal                      fila-                                             pattern                     ment                                                                              250                                                                              acry-                                                                             1 to 13/4  modified                                                olefin lic 11/2"                                                                             3  15  acrylic                                                                            1 to 13/4                                                                         12 30                                                                modified                                                                      acrylic                                                                            1 to 11/2                                                                         18 30                                      __________________________________________________________________________

                  TABLE III                                                       ______________________________________                                        INCREMENT           NO. OF WALES                                              ______________________________________                                        Left Selvedge           28                                                    Pelt #        1         38                                                                  2         38                                                                  3         37                                                                  4         37                                                                  5         37                                                                  6         36                                                                  7         36                                                                  8         36                                                                  9         35                                                                  10        34                                                                  11        35                                                                  12        36                                                                  13        36                                                                  14        36                                                                  15        37                                                                  16        37                                                                  17        37                                                                  18        38                                                                  19        38                                                    Right Selvedge          28                                                    TOTAL               750                                                       ______________________________________                                    

EXAMPLES 1 through 5

The starting materials of the above Examples A through E are eachemployed in the practice of the present invention using conditions asspecified in Tables IV and V below.

In each of these examples, the coating composition for each of the firstand the second coatings comprises an aqueous, foamed emulsion of astable self-cross linking butyl acrylate polymer composed of

89.3 weight percent butyl acrylate

8.9 weight percent acrylonitrile

1.8 weight percent N-methylol acrylomide

the above percentages are derived from parts per 100 resin. This polymerhas a glass transition temperature (T_(g)) of -35° C. as determined in adifferential scanning colometer such as a DuPont Model 490. The polymerparticle size is approximately 0.18 microns.

In the first heating or first pass the oven temperature is as shown inTables IV and V and little curing takes place. In the second pass orsecond heating, as shown in Table V the higher temperature results in asubstantially complete polymer cross linking.

Each of these products is contour sheared and has heat shrink heatshrinkable fibers therein.

By the term "pattern repeat" as used herein reference is had primarilyto a visual effect as compared to a technical or precise fabricconstructional (e.g. stitch placement) fact. For example, in the case ofa seemingly pelted fabric, one selected pattern repeat transverselycomprises a single animal pelt width at one transverse location when thepelt(s) adjacent such a selected pelt would achieve substantially thesame aesthetic appearance with perhaps a technically different stitchpattern arrangement.

                                      TABLE IV                                    __________________________________________________________________________              First Tensioning                                                                          First coating                                                     (based on relaxed                                                                         polymer              % shrink after                               starting fabric)                                                                          glass     weight     first tension                                %     %     transition                                                                              coating                                                                           First Heating                                                                        release                            Example                                                                            Starting                                                                           elongation                                                                          elongation                                                                          temp chemical                                                                           lb/line                                                                           Temp                                                                              Time                                                                             width                                                                             length                         No.  Fabric                                                                             width length                                                                              °C.                                                                         type yard                                                                              °C.                                                                        min.                                                                             %   %                              __________________________________________________________________________    X1   A    10    8     -30  Acrylic                                                                            0.13                                                                              240 3  1.0 1.0                            X2   B    8     9     -30  Acrylic                                                                            0.16                                                                              230 4  1.0 1.5                            X3   C    10    8     -30  Acrylic                                                                            0.18                                                                              250 2.5                                                                              1.5 1.8                            X4   D    8     7     -30  Acrylic                                                                            0.22                                                                              220 2  1.3 1.7                            X5   E    4     8     -30  Acrylic                                                                            0.15                                                                              230 4  1.0 1.5                            __________________________________________________________________________

                                      TABLE V                                     __________________________________________________________________________    Contour Shearing    Second Tensioning                                                                         Second Coating (Optional)                                     fabric                                                                            based on relaxed                                                                          polymer                                       *no of shear    speed                                                                             starting fabric                                                                           glass     weight                              Ex. repeats                                                                              shearing                                                                           yards                                                                             %     %     transition                                                                              coating                                                                            Second Heating                 No. transversely                                                                         height                                                                             per elongation                                                                          elongation                                                                          temp. Tg                                                                           chemical                                                                           lb/linear                                                                          Temp.                                                                             Time                       (contd)                                                                           across fabric                                                                        (inches)                                                                           minute                                                                            width length                                                                              ° C.                                                                        type yard °                                                                          (min)                      __________________________________________________________________________    1   20     15/32                                                                              5   6     5     -30  Acrylic                                                                            0.15 280 3                          2   12     1    7   5     6     -30  Acrylic                                                                            .18  275 2.3                                                        below 0                                       3   20     20/32                                                                              6   7     6     -30  Acrylic                                                                            .20  285 2.5                        4   20     17/32                                                                              5   5     4     -30  Arylic                                                                             .25  300 3                          5   20     13/32                                                                              4   4     5     -30  Acrylic                                                                            .17  310 3.5                        __________________________________________________________________________     *Refers to number of groves or valleys longitudinally extending in a          resulting contour sheared fabric                                         

We claim:
 1. A process for making a knitted pile fabric which has beencontour sheared yet which has at least two different lengths of fibersin the pile thereof, said process comprising the steps of:(A) tensioningboth transversely and longitudinally a previously dimensionallyunstabilized knitted pile starting fabric to an extent sufficient toexpand the length thereof from 0 to about 30% and to change the widththereof from about -30% to +30%, said fabric being characterized byhaving:(1) the backing thereof comprised of yarn having a denier rangingfrom about 150 to 600, (2) the pile thereof comprised of fibersextending from about 1/8 to 2 inches in height over said backing, saidpile being comprised on a 100 weight percent total pile basis of fromabout 10 to 90 weight percent of heat shrinkable fibers, with thebalance up to 100 weight percent thereof being thermally stable fibers,said heat shrinkable fibers being heat shrinkable to a heat shrinkingtemperature applied for a heat shrinking time, (3) a weight ratio ofpile fiber to backing yarn ranging from about 2.5:1 to 16:1, (4) fromabout 8 to 24 wales per inch and from about 17 to 42 courses per inch,(B) uniformly applying to the surface of the backing of said fabric afirst coating composition, while said fabric is so tensioned, said firstcoating composition comprising an organic polymeric material which:(1)has a glass transition temperature not above about 0° C., (2) is capableof bonding to said fabric after application to said backing thereof whensuch are heated together to a first temperature which is below said heatshrinking temperature, (3) dimensionally stabilizes said fabric, afterbeing heated to said first temperature for a time sufficient to achievesaid bonding, to an extent sufficient to prevent said fabric fromrecovering from its so tensioned configuration beyond a predeterminedtransverse width, when said tensioning is subsequently removed, (C)heating said coated fabric backing to said first temperature for a timesufficient to achieve said bonding while said fabric is so tensioned,(D) removing said tensioning, (E) simultaneously(1) passing theresulting fabric longitudinally through a contour shearing zoneextending transversely across said fabric with the pile side of saidfabric being towards the contours of the shearing elements in saidcontour shearing zone, the transverse width of said contour shearingzone being equal to said predetermined transverse width, thereby toachieve predetermined contours in the pile of such said fabric, (2)longitudinally tensioning and transversely aligning the respective sosheared contours of said fabric with said contour shearing zone toachieve a predetermined registration between contours in said contourshearing zone and said pile, thereby to achieve a predeterminedrelationship between such contour in the pile side of such fabric andsuch fibers in the pile side thereof, and (3) contour shearing said pileof said resulting fabric, and (F) simultaneously(1) heating the socontour sheared fabric to a said heat shrinking temperature for saidheat shrinking time, (2) tensioning transversely and longitudinally saidso contour sheared fabric to the respective extents defined above instep (A) for said heat shrinking time, and (3) maintaining said contoursheared pile free from contact with any solid object for said heatshrinking time.
 2. The process of claim 1 wherein said starting fabrichas formed therein a pattern of repeats which resembles a predeterminedseemingly seamed together group of longitudinally aligned animal peltsand wherein step (E) is conducted with the contours of said contourshearing zone being in a predetermined registration with said pattern ofrepeats.
 3. The process of claim 2 wherein each of said repeats hassimulated guard hairs and simulated base hairs.
 4. The process of claim2 wherein each of said repeats has a striped region of generallydifferent color, texture, and length extending longitudinallytherethrough.
 5. The process of claim 4 wherein said striped region isgenerally darker in color and thicker in texture than adjoining areas ineach individual said repeat.
 6. The process of claim 1 wherein the heatshrinkable fibers of said starting fibric heat shrink at temperaturesranging from about 200° to 350° C. to the extent of from about 10 to 60percent thereof within a heat shrinking time of from about 1 to 5minutes.
 7. The process of claim 1 wherein said starting fabric containsfrom about 10 to 50 weight percent of heat shrinkable fibers with thebalance up to 100 weight percent thereof being thermally stable fibers.8. The process of claim 1 wherein the pile of said starting fabric iscomprised of fibers having deniers ranging from about 1.5 to
 50. 9. Theprocess of claim 1 wherein said starting fabric is comprised of at leasttwo different classes of heat shrinkable fibers, one of said classeshaving a heat shrinkability in the range of from about 10 to 20 percentwith deniers ranging from about 1.5 to 6, a second class of such heatshrinkable fibers having a heat shrinkability in the range of from about18 to 35 percent and having deniers in the range of from about 3 to 12,the weight ratio of said first class of heat shrinkable fibers to saidsecond class of heat shrinkable fibers on a 100 weight percent totalheat shrinkable fiber weight basis ranging from about 4:6 to 6:4. 10.The process of claim 9 wherein said starting fabric has a plurality ofpattern repeats ranging from about 10 to 200 wales each transversely andwherein step (E) is conducted with the contours of said contour shearingzone being in a predetermined registration with said plurality ofpattern repeats.
 11. The process of claim 10, wherein each of thepattern repeats in said starting fabric ranges from about 1 to 20 inchestranversely and each pattern has a width which is substantially equal tothe others thereof, and said starting fabric has been transverselydifferentially knitted.
 12. The process of claim 11 wherein saidstarting fabric has a pile which is comprised of fibers selected fromthe group consisting of acrylic fibers and modified acrylic fibers.